(my favorite one this season) revisits the collective memory of Haute Couture ensemble and re-ensemble through periods, places and people. Such as recomposed relics and fabrics that have been transformed into a collection that blends the idea of love and memories worn proudly and passed to others that will later add another element from themselves.
Interesting the idea proposed for this season by the Maison Martin Margiela haute couture atelier to re-interpret old garments and transforming them from sample embroideries and ordinary items into new gorgeous pieces.
Maison Martin Margiela f/w 1991
The rhythm of fashion is historically fueled by the era we live in. No designer, critic or client can speed up, slow or change fashion’s rhythm. Occasionally there is the rare designer whose antennae are higher than any other’s, who is the first to receive the signals, and through fashion design actually anticipate world events, such as the political collapse of Eastern Europe and the fall of Communism in the Soviet Union.
A Belgian designer, Martin Margiela, working in Paris, showed such exceptional intuition with his early collections founded on the decontructivist movement. This season, he amputated many designs into separated pieces, such as a sweater castrated of its sleeves, and the upper torso severed from the ribcage, paralleling the amputation of the Baltic states from the Soviet Union.