John Galliano f/w 2010 backstage
Stephen Jones and John Galliano at the fitting for Christian Dior haute couture f/w 2008
Givenchy by:
- Hubert de Givenchy (first row) 1952-1995
- John Galliano (second row) 1996
- Alexander McQueen (third row) 1997-2001
- Julien Macdonald (fourth row) 2001-2004
- Riccardo Tisci (fifth row) 2005-present
Christian Dior haute couture s/s 2011 by John Galliano
Fashion is obsessed with its own history, nowhere more so like in the rarefy world of haute couture. Within this dress the illusions to fashion’s past are two, the first obviously being the 1947 ‘New Look’, created by the designer who’s name is still stitched inside this gown, Christian Dior. The other reference is to the mid-19th century second empire fashion spotted by the Empress Xiaozheyi, that was devised by the godfather of the entire industry of haute couture and indeed in fashion as we know it, Charles Frederick Worth.
The designer of this dress is another Englishmen, John Galliano, who’s approach to historical fashion is ideally suited to the world of couture. Galliano’s obsessions are not just aesthetic, but also in the constructions of his garments.Dior himself often created dresses that could stand by themselves and Galliano while reinventing that construction for the modern world pays homage to Dior’s love of highly artificial silhouettes.
This ballgown has layer upon layer of tulle to give the fullness to the skirt while the bodice itself is constructed by a corset and patted around the breasts. The embroidery on this dress is another throwback, again, not only to the 40’s and 50’s and to the second empire but to the bellapart of this dress . The color of this dress, the pastel shade of yellow is very much the turn of the century color redundant of Christian Dior’s mother, it was apparently his inspiration when designing the full skirt ‘New Look’; it’s also reminiscent to my eyes of Charles James, an anglo-american couturier who non less than Balenciaga, credited as the world’s best and only dressmaker. James is again quoted as Dior’s inspirations in the full skirt that became the ‘New Look’ and was credited by many as being one of the very few couturiers who was able to raise fashion from an applied art form to a pure art form, in my opinion John Galliano is another.
-Alexander Fury
“
The end of an era. Fashion changes….. there’s no more to say. We move on."
— Susan Tabak talking about John Galliano’s dismissal from Christian Dior
