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Ming Xi for Chanel haute couture f/w 2014 (details film)

Ming Xi for Chanel haute couture f/w 2014 (details film)

Oscar Carvallo haute couture f/w 2014

Oscar Carvallo haute couture f/w 2014

Ralph & Russo haute couture f/w 2014 backstage

Ralph & Russo haute couture f/w 2014 backstage

Giambattista Valli haute couture f/w 2014

Giambattista Valli haute couture f/w 2014

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Details from Chanel haute couture f/w 2014

That twistedness was the key to the collection. The word couture implies cutting and seaming. There was none of that here. Everything was molded rather than seamed. “It’s Haute Couture without the Couture,” said Lagerfeld, tongue firmly in cheek. And yet there was look after look of a gorgeousness so exquisite it could only be achieved in ateliers that were accustomed to confronting the impossible—and mastering it. It must help that Lagerfeld always has the future in mind as he cherry-picks his way through the past. Take lace and coat it with silicone. Think pink, but think plastic, too. Tatter, shred, disrespect…and make something new. That was all in keeping with the much-touted youth-ifying of Couture. Sam McKnight’s hair and Maison Michel’s little hats perched pertly on the back of the models’ heads had the effect of a Haircut 100 cover from The Face circa 1982. The effect was compounded by Lagerfeld building his silhouette on shorts. There were coatdresses over shorts, jackets and skirts over shorts, plus the perfect shoes for shorts—sandals. Given the molded, sculpted nature of the clothes, Lagerfeld liked the ease of a flat. “The models can walk in those dresses like they’re nothing,” he said.

                                           -Tim Blanks

Elie Saab haute couture f/w 2014

Elie Saab haute couture f/w 2014

Valentino haute couture f/w 2014

Valentino haute couture f/w 2014

Frank Sorbier haute couture f/w 2014

Frank Sorbier haute couture f/w 2014

Valentino haute couture f/w 2014

Valentino haute couture f/w 2014

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Viktor and Rolf haute couture f/w 2014

RAD by Rad Hourani haute couture f/w 2014

RAD by Rad Hourani haute couture f/w 2014

Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture f/w 2014

Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture f/w 2014

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