Maison Martin Margiela f/w 1991
The rhythm of fashion is historically fueled by the era we live in. No designer, critic or client can speed up, slow or change fashion’s rhythm. Occasionally there is the rare designer whose antennae are higher than any other’s, who is the first to receive the signals, and through fashion design actually anticipate world events, such as the political collapse of Eastern Europe and the fall of Communism in the Soviet Union.
A Belgian designer, Martin Margiela, working in Paris, showed such exceptional intuition with his early collections founded on the decontructivist movement. This season, he amputated many designs into separated pieces, such as a sweater castrated of its sleeves, and the upper torso severed from the ribcage, paralleling the amputation of the Baltic states from the Soviet Union.