In Romantic Exoticism, we wanted very much to give the idea of a music box, so we used mirrors to give an idea of infinity and also redundant turntables. McQueen often looked for inspiration not only in the distant past but also in other cultures, particularly China or in Japan. McQueen loved embroidery and Japan and China were two cultures that excelled, as in India, another great influence in McQueen’s career.
Voss is a collection that featured exoticize garments very heavily, you see two examples here in the patchwork that gives the impression of chrysanthemums of flowers associated with the east, particularly Japan. Voss was a collection staged with a box within a box, with a two-way mirror. The finale of the collection was a small box within the larger box of the wall crashing down revealing a naked lady with moths fluttering around inspired by a photograph by Joel Peter Witkin, entitled ‘Sanitarium’.